This article is a mobile-friendly adaptation of the piece I wrote for my sister site, Hooked-on: "Cavallo Jacket Brunello Cucinelli." If the subject interests you, I encourage you to visit the original on Hooked-on as well.
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This is an article about the Cavallo — Brunello Cucinelli's spring/summer tailored jacket, ordered as MTM (Made to Measure). It's the jacket that first drew me to pairing a tailored jacket casually with jeans.
MTM( Made to Measure).
This was my first order for a tailored jacket from Brunello Cucinelli. I chose the Cavallo, one of the house's defining silhouettes. As a spring/summer piece, I selected a refined fabric — primarily linen, blended with cotton and silk — that captures the relaxed, unstudied quality that is central to Brunello Cucinelli's approach.
Single-breasted, three buttons, narrow lapels cut slightly wider than standard, four-button cuffs, horn buttons, patch pockets at the breast and sides, a wine-red lining, side vents, and no shoulder padding — the details are casual throughout.
For color, I chose a medium grey that brings out the slightly coarse texture of the linen, with the natural creasing that develops with wear — giving the jacket the feel of something to be draped on loosely in the warmer months. Because it is made to my measurements, it fits well despite its relaxed attitude; the result is a silhouette with a quiet sense of presence.
Overview of MTM.
- Choose a base silhouette from seven jacket patterns
- Decide between single- or double-breasted
- Choose the lapel shape — I went with a wider cut of narrow lapel
- Choose the pocket configuration — I went with patch pockets on all three, no flaps
- Once the silhouette is set, choose the fabric — I chose a linen-cotton-silk blend with a light nep, in dark grey
- Choose the button material for the three front buttons and four sleeve buttons — I chose ivory horn
- Choose the lining color — I chose wine red
- Decide on trousers — I skipped them, as I wear this with jeans
With those decisions made, a dedicated fitter takes the necessary measurements, and a jacket close to the chosen pattern and size is tried on so adjustments can be pinned. The measurements and photos in the sample jacket are sent to Italy, where skilled craftspeople complete the garment.
Completion: approximately two months later.
※ MTM pricing varies depending on fabric, pattern, and details. As a rough guide, expect around 20% above the equivalent ready-to-wear piece. The fabric selection goes well beyond the ready-to-wear range — different colorways, unusual materials not found in the standard line, and fabrics that are exceptional in both appearance and hand.
Styling
Despite being a tailored jacket, I wear it with vintage jeans. My pairings of choice are a 1954 Levi's 501XX and Brunello Cucinelli's slim-fit denim.
Levi's 501XX.
The combination I reach for most often is the 1954 501XX. Together they form an orthodox box silhouette — a solid, masculine shape.
The quality of the fabric and construction means it retains its composure even when worn loosely.
Paired with the 501XX, the overall silhouette becomes rectangular — there's a certain rough-edged masculinity to it.
The line from shoulder to hip is clean. The body length is right, and the proportion works.
The classic pairing is all Brunello Cucinelli. Slim-fit jeans, a T-shirt, and suede loafers — the balance of the whole holds together well.
The spring/summer Cavallo I had made reads more put-together than it feels to wear — a genuinely impressive piece of tailoring.
The fabric is linen-cotton-silk, predominantly linen and cotton, so it creases readily. But since I wear it with jeans, those creases are part of the appeal — something to be draped on loosely. From here, I want to wear it in properly, let it truly conform to my body, and build the kind of lasting attachment that only comes with time.
Details.
- Three-button roll lapel; patch slash pockets, ticket pocket, and breast patch pocket
- Four-button cuffs with functional buttonholes; half-lined in cupro
- Two button-closure inner pockets and a pen holder pocket; drop 7; side vents at back
- 59% linen, 40% cotton, 1% silk
Coordination.
- Jacket: Brunello Cucinelli, size 46
- Henley-neck knit in T-shirt style: Tom Ford, size 46
- Denim: Levi's 501XX 53 Model, waist 30", length 32"
- Boots: White's
- Hat: Brunello Cucinelli
- Watch: Rolex GMT Master 1675 (1964)
- Sunglasses: Tom Ford
Conclude.
Tailored jackets had never been much of an interest for me — jeans are my foundation. But this Brunello Cucinelli MTM order landed more naturally than I expected, and in doing so it opened up something in how I think about dressing.
It's had an effect on footwear as well. Loafers with jeans weren't something I reached for before, but I've since bought Brunello Cucinelli suede loafers, and I'm looking forward to wearing them with the jacket alongside boots and sneakers.
Purchasing Store.
Brunello Cucinelli Ginza Store
All of my Brunello Cucinelli pieces come from the Brunello Cucinelli Ginza store.
As I mentioned in the field jacket piece, the store is exceptional — not just for what it carries, but for the people behind it. Worth visiting at least once.
For this MTM order, the remaining fabric and the matching buttons have been stored carefully at the store. If a button is lost, the fabric wears, or anything needs repair over the years of use ahead, that's taken care of. They also refer good cleaners, and can arrange cleaning through the store on request — a level of care built around wearing things for a long time.
For anyone who wants to invest in something genuinely good and wear it for years, this is the brand I'd point to.