I used to think that the quintessential jeans were the button-fly Levi's 501, but the Lee 101Z taught me about the appeal of the zipper fly and the appeal of a more trouser-like styling. It's a very comfortable model, and you can use it without having to worry about it as much as the 501XX.
The Lee 101Z is a pair of jeans that I've always been interested in, but I've never been able to get my hands on one because there are so few of them around and there's not much information available compared to Levi's. My 101Z is a model from the 1950s, known as the ‘black centre tag’ model. It is a jean originally made for cowboys, and compared to the 501, it has a deeper rise and a slightly more relaxed silhouette, so while it is a jean, it has the shape of a straight trouser with a beautiful silhouette, making it easy to match with any outfit and a highly versatile jean.
The reason I bought the 101Z was because I wanted a pair of jeans with a zip fly, so I went to Fake-a in Harajuku to look for a pair of 501ZXX, but I couldn't find a pair in my size, so the manager recommended the 101Z to me, and when I tried them on, I liked them, so I bought them. Thanks to the silhouette, with its wide leg and straight hem, they go well with chunky boots, creating a hard-edged, cool style.
My 101Z are a little long, with a 30-inch waist and 33-inch length, but when I wear them with shoes with heels, the hem doesn't touch the ground, so I wear them without rolling them up.
In modern times, the silhouette of these jeans gives the impression that they are chosen by people who ride motorbikes (motorcyclists who ride American-style bikes like Harley-Davidsons or classic Triumphs), and in fact, my friend who rides a Harley-Davidson loves to wear Lee 101Zs.
Lee 101Zs are associated with the image of American youths and delinquents from the 1950s, because James Dean wore them in the film ‘Rebel Without a Cause’. I thought they were very strong-willed jeans, but when I got them and tried them on, I found that they were very comfortable to wear and forgiving, as they go well with any outfit. Thanks to their loose silhouette and zipper fly, they are comfortable to wear and have a quality that makes you want to pick them up and put them on without thinking.
Compared to Levi's, Lee jeans tend to retain their colour more easily due to the fabric and dyeing process. The appeal of Levi's is that the colour fades, but the appeal of Lee is that the colour does not fade. Many of them have faded only around the knees and buttocks, but this fading is also a result of wear and aging, and is very attractive. The colour of Levi's fades to a bright blue, but Lee fades to a greenish blue with a hint of yellow.
Like the 501, they were originally made as work clothes, so they have an excellent functional beauty as work wear, and are excellent jeans that have been made in the same way for many years.
These jeans were made in the 1950s and have aged well, so they fit me well and I wear them a lot. In winter, I mainly wear them with leather jumpers like the A2 and J100, and I wear White's boots for a slightly harder look. In spring and summer, I enjoy wearing them with a T-shirt and suede loafers for a more casual look.
The Lee 101z is characterised by its deep rise and comfortable fit, similar to that of trousers.
- Centre black tag (50s)
- 6 belt loops
- Waist 30 inches Length 33 inches
- There is some repair work on the back pocket.
- The colour is still dark.
- Field jacket : M47, size 44
- T-shirt-style henley-necked knit : TOM FORD, size 46
- Denim : Lee 101Z, 1950s, waist 30inch, length 33inch
- Shoes : Loro Piana, White Sole
- Hat : Borsalino
- Watch : IWC Mark11, 1940s
- Sunglasses: Ray-ban WAYFARER 90's (BAUSCH+LAMB)
I was looking for a 501ZXX, and I happened to come across a Lee 101Z 50s. As I actually got them and wore them, I began to see the good points of the 101Z, and they have become something that I use frequently and have grown attached to. They don't have the flashiness of an icon like the 501XX, with its details and attractive fading, but I think that it is precisely this lack of showiness that is the greatest charm of the Lee 101Z.
Because they are made like trousers, they are more comfortable and easier to wear than Levi's jeans, which is another reason why they are worn so often. I'm looking for another pair as a spare, but I haven't found one yet because there are so few of them, but patiently searching for something that suits you is also part of the fun of vintage jeans.
Fake-a
I bought my Lee 101Z 50s from Fake-a in Harajuku, Tokyo.
As I mentioned in my articles on the 501XX 1954 Model and printed corduroy shirts, this is probably the best shop in Japan for 40s and 50s American vintage clothing, and the manager and staff are all very knowledgeable about vintage clothing, so you can be sure of a great selection and a great shopping experience no matter what you choose.
Fake-a is part of the same group as the famous Harajuku store Berberjin, and the two share the same website. Berberjin is also a fantastic store, so if you're ever in Harajuku, be sure to drop by.
