The Rolex GMT Master, also known as the Pepsi watch with its blue and red bezel, is another watch that has sparked my interest. When it comes to buying one, there are many variations in terms of age and model, so it can be difficult to decide which one you want.
The Rolex GMT Master I chose is a model from the 1960s, and like an antique sports Rolex, it has a good texture with a moderate degree of ageing, and this texture goes perfectly with my vintage jeans, which I love.
This time, I would like to introduce the 1964 model with a mirror dial that I own.
After passing the mid-40s, I lost interest in the clothes and watches I had liked up until then, and started to wear Patagonia sportswear as my everyday clothes, got rid of all the mechanical watches I owned, and started to wear an Apple Watch on my wrist to manage my health. This lifestyle was very easy, and it continued for a while.
After turning 50, I suddenly became interested in vintage Levi's 501s, and started researching and looking for them. I had always liked second-hand clothes, so I had some knowledge of the subject, but when I looked up Levi's jeans, which have a history of over 100 years, on the internet, I found that each year had its own specifications, and I could see which year and model I liked. My preferences and realistic purchase considerations narrow down the candidates to the 501XX model from the 1950s, also known as the leather patch late model, and the later model known as the paper patch.
The reason I chose the 501XX from the 1950s is that it is the last original of the 501, which evolved as work clothes. Fortunately, I found a pair of 1954 and 1958 501XXs in good condition and a perfect fit, so I bought them.
When this happens, it's my bad habit to want a watch that goes with my jeans, so I start looking around for one. As it's a pair of jeans, the watch needs to have a metal bracelet rather than a leather strap, and a sports watch would be best. The first watch I chose was a Rolex Day-Date 1803 made in 1969. As it's a white gold model, it's more formal than a sports watch, but as it has a bracelet rather than a strap, it goes well with jeans and I can use it without feeling out of place.
Rolex is the world's number one watch manufacturer, and it is very popular, with many people owning one. I didn't find Rolex particularly attractive. To be honest, I've never owned or worn a Rolex watch, old or new, and I've never wanted one.
My bad habit came out because the Day-Date was wonderful, and I started looking into things related to antique Rolexes, and I started to become interested in antique sports Rolexes, which I had not been very interested in before. At first, I became interested in the Explorer 1 1016, and I became interested in the mirror dials up to the mid-1960s, and I started to look into the sales situation on the internet.
Compared to matte dials, mirror dials have a unique ageing effect on the face of the watch. The atmosphere of this deterioration somewhat overlaps with the paintwork of vintage guitars that I was crazy about in the past, and I started to think that if I like antiques and collectibles, then mirror dials would be good for me.
While I was browsing around for Explorer 1, I came across a GMT Master on a website, and it suddenly started to look pretty cool. I didn't really like the blue-red bezel of the GMT Master to begin with, but the blue-red bezel that has faded and discoloured now looks suddenly attractive, with an image of a faded Lake Placid Blue or Candy Apple Red Fender Stratocaster from the 60s.
For this reason, I started looking into the GMT Master and became interested in the 1675 mirror dial, and started looking for one.
Not just Rolex, but all antiques and vintage items are one-of-a-kind, and there are no other items in the same condition. This is part of their appeal, but it can be difficult to find something that meets all the conditions you are looking for, such as your personal preferences, budget, and the condition of the item.
While continuing to search, I found an item that had aged to a suitable level and met my personal preferences. I immediately went to the shop and asked to see the actual watch.
The watch I chose is a GMT Master 1675, manufactured in 1964. It has a lacquer dial known as a mirror dial, a slightly smaller case and crown, and a naturally faded bezel. It also has the original Swiss bracelet from the same period, and it still retains its original condition from that time.
After more than 50 years, it has been used continuously, and the previous owner took good care of it, so it has naturally aged and developed scratches and deterioration in a natural way, fully satisfying the element of ‘a tool that has been used carefully over the years’ that is also the charm of antique watches.
This is the first time I've visited this shop, but the manager was very helpful, giving me a detailed explanation and showing me the various GMT Masters, Submariners and Explorers, explaining the appeal of each one and taking quite a bit of time to let me try them on and compare them. While we were doing this, we got chatting about our hobbies.
When buying antiques or vintage items, the most important thing for me is that I want to buy from this person or this shop. Of course, the items themselves are important, but in the end, I think it's important to be able to trust the person or the shop, and to have respect and affection for the items you handle, and to be able to treat customers with confidence in the items you handle.
Unlike new items, the manufacturer or producer does not guarantee the value, so it is very important that the price is fair. This price is formed in a way that is similar to the market price, but it can vary greatly depending on the condition and history of the item. Even if it is the same item from the same era, the value can change significantly over the decades due to differences in history and condition.
There are surprisingly few shops that can explain these things to customers in a way that they can understand, and in the end, shops are formed and shaped by communication between people. The manager of the shop I visited this time fulfilled all of these conditions, and even though it was the first time we had met, I decided that I wanted to buy from this person and this shop, and I immediately purchased the 1964 GMT Master that I had been shown.
*The shop where I made my purchase is introduced at the end of the article, so please take a look.
GMT-Master 1675 (1964)
The reason I liked this watch was that the bezel had faded well, and when you look at the dial up close, you can see that the paint is peeling off in places, but the markers are perfectly painted and the hands are in good condition, and the mirror dial has a wonderful sheen and colour, giving it a great atmosphere.
The condition of the movement and the tightness of the crown were also fine, but after using it for about a month after I bought it, I asked the shop to do an overhaul and inspection just to be sure, and they were happy to do it for no charge.
- GMT-Master 1675
- Year 1964
- Case Stainless steel
- Bezel Blue-red two-tone, 24-hour rotating bezel *Both directions
- Bracelet Stainless steel Age-matched Swiss riveted bracelet
- Windscreen Plastic windscreen (Plexiglas)
- Dial Lacquered mirror dial
- 24-hour hand Small type
- Automatic winding caliper 1570
- The faded bezel colour gives it a similar vibe to vintage guitars of the same era.
- The faded bezel shade of blue-red matches vintage jeans.
- The blue-red, commonly known as Pepsi, was shared with the blue of 501s and the red tag of Levi's.
- That the blue of the bezel had faded, just like old faded jeans.
- I didn't think much of it, but the 24-hour hand was unexpectedly useful.
- The fact that the arrow on the 24-hour hand was smaller than other generations, which looked cool.
- I liked the deteriorated lacquer coating on the dial.
- I used to like Pilot's Watches.
- There are many detailed reasons, but it all comes down to the fact that I liked the atmosphere when I put the watch in my hand.
- The fact that the shop I went to was solid and handled reliable products.
- The conversation with the shop manager was enjoyable and informative, and I felt that I wanted to buy a product from this shop.
- The bracelet is loose compared to the tight fit of current watches, so the watch feels loose.
- Water resistance is not as good as current models.
- The crown is small, and it is difficult to wind the watch compared to other Rolex watches.
- Even considering the above problems, the watch has a unique atmosphere that is not found in current models, so it is not a problem for me.
There are many other reasons, such as the fine details and movement, but there are websites that explain this information in detail, so I will omit them. The colour on the bezel makes it a perfect match for jeans and military wear, as well as for casual style in general. If a strict dress code is taken into account, it would be a different watch for suits, but it also goes well with suits and jackets, which is surprising.
The GMT-Master introduced in this article will appear in future articles on vintage clothing and other clothing items. We hope this will be of interest to those who are interested in the GMT-Master as an item of total coordination and are considering purchasing it, as well as the appeal of the watch.
Antique CORLEONE
Shop introduction
I bought my GMT Master at Antique Corleone in Harajuku.
It is a long-established shop that has been dealing in antique Rolex and Tudor watches since the 1990s. They have a great eye for things, and they have a full line-up of watches, from those with collector value to those that can be enjoyed as a fashion item at a slightly lower price. What is good about this shop is that there are many shops that only price their products based on the recent year and model, but they assess the condition of the product, and even if it has a high market value, they keep the price down if it is not in good condition, and sell good value products at a fair price.
Characteristics of the shop
Antique Corleone's watches are characterised by their attention to and discernment of the face of the watch, such as the dial, markers and hands, and they are all beautiful and aged watches with a great atmosphere, I find myself looking at a lot of different products.
The image of the shop is that it seems a bit high-street, but the staff are friendly and offer a variety of suggestions. You can also enjoy chatting with them and looking at watches at your leisure. The conversation with the staff is interesting when they show you their products, and you end up having a long conversation with them.
Because of the location, there are many fashion-related customers, and although the shop is fashionable, many fashionable and sharp-looking older customers also visit the shop.
My GMT Master and Red Sub were selected by the manager here, and his selections are always in excellent condition and the atmosphere is superb.
A shop loved by hobbyists
As an aside, many of the customers here are hobbyists, and they often talk not only about watches, but also about cars, motorbikes, vintage guitars, vintage cameras, antique furniture, vintage clothes, surfing, etc. The staff often talk about their hobbies, and I, too, often talk about my favourite things, so we end up talking more about my hobbies than about watches. I also enjoy talking about my hobbies more than talking about watches, but it is a long-established shop where you can have fun.
