I like jeans, orthodox straight jeans, I wear a lot of jeans, but I love Levi's 501. The Levi's 501 has a long history, and like guitars and watches, a vintage second market has been formed, and there are many variations from the 19th century, before the war, during the war, after the war, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s, 2000s to the present.
There is a market for collectors, enthusiasts and fashion items, and when they are old, rare and in good condition, they are worth a tremendous amount of money and transcend the category of jeans and fashion with many lovers all over the world.
Many jeans have been influenced by the 501, with some incorporating its shape and details, others being faithful replicas, and even Levi's itself has produced an archive of faithful reproductions from specific decades, so there are many jeans under its influence that are still being created today. The Levi's jeans are a great example of the kind of jeans that are still being produced today.
In this article, we will introduce a model that is considered our favourite 501XX.
The model called 501XX generally refers to the model sold from 1947 to the mid-1960s.
The reason for this is that on the right side of the back belt loop of the 501 (above the right pocket on the buttocks), there was a patch indicating the product name, on which the name ‘501XX’ appeared along with the name ‘Levi's’ From the mid-1960s onwards, the 501XX designation was changed to 501 and later models are generally referred to as Big E or 66 models and classified as such.
The distinctive Levi's jeans patch is almost always missing from vintage jeans. Vintage 501s sold worldwide for many years are classified into different models based on their distinctive shape and when they were sold.
In fact, patches for pre-1947 models are also marked 501XX, but pre-1947 models, commonly known as World War II models, pre-war models and older models have their own common names and are not referred to as 501XX, so we will not use the term 501XX here. The model referred to as 501XX is a generic term for those sold from 1947 to the 1960s with 501XX on the patch.
- Until 1946 (commonly known as the ‘Great War Model’ *some post-war models have a mix of the Great War Model and 47 styles)
- From 1947 to around 1953, leather patch, early single-sided tab, 501XX
- From around 1953 to around 1955, leather patch, late double-sided tab, centre loop, 501XX
- From 1955 to the mid-1960s: Paper patches (classified by form characteristics, such as whether or not they have a galla) 501XX
- From the mid-1960s to the mid-1970s: Models known as the Big-E and the 66 model
The 501XX model I use and love, which I will introduce here, is the so-called 54 model, which was produced from around 1953 to 1955. I also own a model produced a little later, which is called the 55 model. I will introduce this 55 model in another article.
The 501XX was a model that was mass-produced from the post-war period through to the 1960s, and it was the culmination of a type of work pants made from denim fabric that had its roots in work clothes that had been made before that time.
The functional beauty of the 501XX, which was created as workwear and refined over time, was passed on to later 501s and jeans influenced by the 501, and it became the origin of today's jeans. The fact that it is the original is the greatest appeal of the 501XX as I see it.
The fact that, despite being the roots of today's jeans, there are still individual pairs that can be worn as normal, and the fact that the texture of the wear and tear that is one of the criteria for valuing second-hand, vintage and antique items is also very attractive and easy to understand, are also the appeal of the 501XX.
- The fact that it is the origin and original of current jeans
- The fact that it is a second-hand item from nearly 60 years ago, but can still be worn as normal
- The fact that each item has its own unique texture due to the passage of nearly 60 years
- The fact that the texture of each item and its condition are all one-of-a-kind in the world
- The fact that it is impossible to reproduce an item in the same condition
- The fact that the texture of the item is not something that has been created
- that it is the real thing that has inspired many of the jeans currently on the market
- that the texture of the wear and tear is attractive and easy to understand
While the pre-501XX models are also very attractive, there are only a few existing pairs, and they are highly valued for their historical value, so they are quite expensive. Also, they are difficult to wear on a daily basis, and the shape is slightly different from the current 501 (which is also part of their appeal ), and many of the 501s and jeans made in homage to the 501 that are sold today are based on the form of the 501XX, and this is the reason why the 501XX is considered to be the original 501.
(There are various theories, and there are other viewpoints, but I think it has had a big impact on later products).
Not just the 501XX, but the 501 is a very attractive pair of jeans, including the current models, and it is an attractive fashion item that can be worn as a pair of trousers, rather than just as jeans.
When I'm asked what the most basic colour in men's fashion is, I would say blue, and then grey, but the blue colour of jeans, known as indigo, is exactly the first blue. This blue is very versatile and can be worn with a wide range of clothes, making it
Also, although the 501 is a so-called straight-legged jean with a silhouette that is not very tapered, the silhouette, which does not fit too tightly to the body, creates a subtle crease when worn, and the faded indigo colour has a synergistic effect, making the lines of the legs and waist look beautiful and giving the whole style a good appearance.
I have tried to summarise the appeal of the 501XX in this context.
- Since the 1960s, the silhouette of the 501 has become more tapered. The 501XX has a straight silhouette, so the leg opening is a little wider, but this actually creates a subtle crease when you wear them, which makes them look good.
- The stitching on the 501XX is called yellow stitching, and compared to the orange stitching that followed, it stands out brightly due to the colour difference with the indigo blue. (If the colour has faded and it is a light blue, it will
not stand out as much.) This stitching makes the model more attractive than later models. - The 501XX has always been highly valued and well-treated, and there are relatively many pairs that still have a strong colour, so you can enjoy the beautiful indigo blue.
- The greatest appeal of jeans is the texture of the fading, but after 60 years of production, the attractive fading that cannot be reproduced has occurred, and the buttons and rivets are the same as they were back then, and have become exquisite over time.
- Although some of the items have been repaired by a process called tataki, which involves beating the fabric to make it look worn, this is different from the current products that imitate this process and make the fabric look worn, as the
attractive texture of the denim is not something that can be reproduced. - Denim fabric is basically hard, but after many years, the fabric itself becomes soft, so it feels good when you wear it, but because the fabric is soft and the sewing thread has deteriorated, it is easy for it to fray and holes to appear.
The reason I chose my 501XX 54 model is that it was in excellent condition: the perfect size (waist 30 inches, length 32 inches), no damage, no hem-raising, and the indigo blue colour had not faded.
The 501XX 1954 Model that I have introduced here was manufactured 60 years ago and became the origin of later jeans. It has a very attractive texture after 60 years, and it is also my perfect size. I wear it a lot because it feels great and goes with any outfit, and I have a lot of affection and attachment for it, so I take good care of it.
Wearing jeans is the basis of my fashion style. Among them, the vintage 501XX, with its background, story and actual texture, is something that makes me crazy about enjoying fashion, and I want to continue to cherish it for a long time.
When buying, the price can vary greatly depending on the shape, age and condition, which is the fate of vintage items. Because of this, it is better to have some knowledge of the characteristics of each era, but if you go to a reliable shop, you will be able to find the right price. If you are interested, they will be able to give you a product description of the jeans you like, so unless you are an avid collector, I think that a general knowledge of the subject will be enough. If you look up the information on the web, you will be able to find detailed information, so I recommend that you look it up for reference.
As it is a highly hobby-oriented item, if you know the form and background of the details of each year, it will make the conversation more lively when talking about the form and condition of the product. Each individual item has its own story of age, and this is what makes communication possible. This is the interesting thing about vintage products, which are highly hobby-oriented.
The deep indigo blue and yellow stitching are also part of the appeal of the 501XX.
- Levi's 501XX 1954 model
- Leather patch (missing)
- Centre belt loop
- Double-sided tag with ® mark
- Waist 30inch, length 32inch
- No tears, no hemming, indigo colour remains dark
- The size that suits your body
- A beautiful indigo blue with a strong blue tint
- As with all 501s, the line around the waist when worn is beautiful
- Despite being old jeans, there is not much damage, so they go perfectly with tailored jackets, etc.
- As with all 501s, the silhouette is beautiful, and they make you look good
- The problem of colour loss when washing
- The fact that they are expensive if you are considering buying one
- The fact that they are not very useful in the summer when you tend to sweat a lot because of the washing problem
- It is difficult to find a size that suits you because they are all one-off items
The 501 is a good match for almost all items of men's fashion, from military and various T-shirts and shirts, tailored jackets, and the classic winter items such as riders and flight-style leather jackets and stadium jumpers, to coats and thick knits, and it does not limit the items you can combine with it.
If you choose a pair of slightly more particular vintage 501s, the items you wear will stand out, and even clothes you wear casually will look great, allowing you to reaffirm the quality of the clothes you own.
I like straight jeans that fit just right, so I choose a size that fits, but I think they would also look great if you wore them low on the waist by going up a size.
We are introducing 501XX 50s jeans, but those from the 60s onwards are also attractive. As is the nature of vintage markets, the older and rarer the item, the higher the price, so choosing something newer is also an option. I myself also use 501 and 505 jeans from the 90s, which are newer (but still nearly 30 years old).
These days, mechanical watches are becoming more popular, and many people are wearing them in a stylish way, but I think that they also go well with mechanical watches, and I think that they will make your watch even more attractive, so I think that if you get the chance, you should get one.
I think that when you put together your fashion based around your favourite key items, and choose what you wear, you can create a wonderful identity for the person wearing it. In this context, I would like to continue to introduce items that I can have a long-lasting attachment to.
In this article, I have chosen to focus on the 501XX. Jeans, not just the 501XX, are my key item, and I will continue to introduce fashion and accessories based on this key item.
I hope that this article has sparked an interest in the Levi's 501 and jeans, old and new.
Fake-a
The 501XX model I introduced here was purchased at Fake-a in Harajuku, Tokyo.
It is a long-established and well-known shop that needs no introduction, and the quality and condition of the second-hand clothes they handle is extremely high, with treasures that even collectors would be satisfied with lining the store. The store has a strong commitment to its products, including jeans from the 40s and 50s that are almost undamaged and are close to dead stock, and even secondhand clothes other than jeans are in good condition, almost like new. As it is a long-established, well-known shop, many of the items are in good condition and tend to be expensive, but the prices are reasonable and the value of the items is not in doubt, so if you are looking for a particular item or a particular piece, I think you will definitely be satisfied with this shop.
My 501XX also clearly shows the strong blue indigo that comes from the fading of vintage 501s, and I think that the store's commitment to its stock and its discerning eye and confidence in the products it handles are what make it possible to experience the wonder of vintage denim.
The manager of this store has a tough look that makes you feel like you've stepped back in time to the 50s American delinquent scene, and he seems a little intimidating to talk to, but he is very kind and has a great deal of knowledge and passion for vintage clothing, and he will explain each item to you in detail. He also gives accurate advice on how things feel when you try them on and how they compare to other items, so you can choose items that will satisfy you.
If you're looking for high-quality second-hand clothes, why not pay them a visit?
As we'll introduce in a separate section, we also bought a Lee 101Z 50‘s and a corduroy shirt from the same 50’s range here.
Fake-a is part of the same group as the famous Berber Jin in Harajuku, and they share the same website.
