501XX 54Model As I wrote in my article, I like jeans and I especially like the classic straight-legged jeans. Of these, I like Levi's 501 the most and I own several pairs. I would like to introduce the 501XX 55Model, which I wear most often.
The 54Model has a length of 32 inches, so I mostly wear it with boots or loafers with heels, and if I wear it with sneakers, I have to roll them up because they are a little long. The 55Model I am introducing this time has a length of 30.5 inches, so it is the perfect length when worn with sneakers or sandals, so I enjoy wearing it with sneakers such as New Balance.
There are various types of vintage 501s, but they are classified according to the time of manufacture and the shape of the jeans at the time of manufacture. The 55 Model, which I will introduce here, is a 501 that was manufactured from 1955 to around the mid-1960s. It is the last model to be named 501XX, and is commonly referred to as the 501XX of the paper patch period. The 55 Model that I own is said to have been manufactured in around 1958 (according to the shop where I bought it).
Although they are called paper patches, in most cases, including my own, the paper patches have come off and disappeared due to washing. The model is identified by speculating from the features of the paper patch period of the 501XX, such as the misalignment of the centre belt loops, the Big-E double-sided tag, and the copper-plated rivets. What makes this model so attractive is that, while later 501s changed their silhouette to a tapered line in response to the demands of the times, the 501XX from the paper patch period was the last model of the original straight-line 501, and the last 501 to retain the form and functional beauty of work clothes.
I chose this pair because the measurements are just right for me - 29.5 inches around the waist and 30.5 inches in length - and because the other 501s I have are a little long at 32 inches in length, they are good for wearing with boots or loafers with high heels, but they are a little long for sneakers or sandals, so the reason for buying them was that I didn't have any 501s that were just right for wearing with shoes like sneakers and sandals that don't have heels.
As vintage jeans are old items, you need to consider the deterioration that occurs through wear, such as damage to the fabric and repairs, but this item has been repaired in places that are prone to damage, such as the front button and around the knees, so you can wear it without worrying about damage to the fabric. The length is also original, and the hem has not been raised, so the hem is beautifully finished.
The clothes you wear with them tend to be more casual than when you wear the 54 model, and in winter you'll naturally wear a down jacket and sneakers rather than a tailored jacket, and in summer you'll wear a secondhand corduroy shirt or moleskin workwear, or a simple T-shirt and sneakers. My pair has been repaired, and the torn parts have been repaired with a hammer, so you can wear it without worrying too much. Not just this pair, but the slightly low rise of the 501s is a characteristic that makes the waist look neat and clean, so it naturally makes you look good.
The indigo colour is not that dark, but the blue colouring that is often talked about remains well, and the yellow stitching also remains to a moderate degree, and the overall fading and dirt are not a flashy pattern, so they are very useful because there are no quirks and there is no clothing that does not match.
I'm wearing it with an open-collared corduroy shirt of the same age.
- Levi's 501XX 1955 model
- Paper patch
- Centre loop misaligned
- Double-sided tag ® included
- Waist 29.5inch Length 30.5inch
- Repaired tear, no hemming, indigo colour faded to a good degree
- The size that suits your body
- Indigo blue that has faded to a good colour
- As can be said of all 501s, the line around the waist when worn is beautiful
- The waist and length are the perfect size, so you can enjoy them with any shoes
- As can be said of all 501s, the silhouette is beautiful and you look good
- The problem of colour loss when washing
- The fact that they are expensive if you are considering buying one
- The fact that they are not very useful in the summer when you tend to sweat a lot because of the washing problem
- It is difficult to find a size that suits you because they are all one-off items
As I wrote in the article about the 54Model, the 501 is a pair of jeans that can be worn with a wide range of outfits, so you can enjoy coordinating them in many different ways. However, as they are old models and one-off pieces, it can be difficult to find one that suits you in terms of size and feel.
I happened to find a pair in my size that was in good condition, so I bought them, but I think that, when it comes to vintage jeans, as well as other things like antique watches and vintage guitars, taking your time to look for something will eventually lead to a satisfying result.
As a side note, vintage clothing, watches, and guitars are sometimes sold for the purpose of collecting them, and sometimes they are sold for the purpose of actually using them. If they are sold with the intention of collecting them, the price will be expensive, but the condition of the item will be the premise of its value, so if it is used and deteriorates, the value will decrease, so the purpose will ultimately be just to own it.
If you are looking to use it yourself, I think you will enjoy it more if you don't look for it with such a high antique value in mind. (It will also be less of a financial burden.) In my case, I am looking for something to use myself, so I look for things with that kind of standard in mind.
The appeal of vintage jeans is that they are one-of-a-kind, and they were not originally made with a focus on fashion or style, but were made as work clothes. Even if the functional beauty, the time that went into making them, and the form can be physically reproduced, it is impossible to reproduce the passage of time for each individual item, and the fact that it is impossible to make the same thing again is part of their appeal. I think this is the reason why not just me, but people all over the world are so crazy about them.
The value of vintage and antique items is not absolute, so there is also the pleasure of finding a reliable person or shop and searching for an environment where you can buy items in a way that satisfies you.
I hope that this article will be of use to those who have read it, and that it will help them to become interested in the slightly troublesome but fascinating pleasures to be found in vintage and antique objects.
Marvin's
I buy my favourite 501XX 55Model at Marvin's in Harajuku.
Like Fake-a, which I introduced in the 54Model article, Marvin's is a long-established, well-known shop that really doesn't need an introduction. The owner is a leading expert on vintage denim in Japan, and the store's selection ranges from super-rare treasures to items that can be used for everyday wear, and is crammed into the store's small space. The items are organised by size, and each product has a tag clearly showing the price and year of manufacture, so you can judge the budget and approximate size from the display.
If you find a product you like, you can try it on by asking the owner, so you can find the vintage denim (mainly 501) that suits you. If you have any questions about a product when you buy it, the owner will explain the details and the reasons for the price in detail. Also, when you buy it, they will explain in detail about washing, repairs and handling. Above all, you can buy any product with confidence because this shop and its owner have many years of experience and a good reputation.
Also, many of the products are made to be worn, so you can wear them without worrying about tears or fraying, as the necessary repairs have been done. This is one of the good points of the denim handled by Marvin's.
Buying vintage denim for the first time can feel like a daunting task, but if you choose a long-established store like Marvins that you know you can trust, you'll be able to enjoy wearing your new purchase even more.